Tomat's

A tucked-away treasure

No matter where you live, Winters is not very far away. And let me add that even if Tomat’s was in the middle of the Mojave Dessert I would still regularly make the drive if for no other reason than to have their prime rib, pork ribs and home fries. Yes, it is that good.
    The building that houses this unassuming 85-seat restaurant on the outskirts of town has a history of its own. In the early 1950s it made breakfast and box lunches for the men working on the dam that formed Lake Berryessa. A decade ago Tony and Susan DeLa’O took the space and turned it into an attractive, friendly dinner restaurant (brunch on Sunday) and began building a fiercely loyal following.
    With a décor that goes towards comfortable, with colonial blue wainscoting and an eclectic mix of art (and the obligatory elk head), they have assembled a well-considered menu with service both friendly and professional.
    Since I initially learned about Tomat’s because of their prime rib, let’s begin there. Simply put, it is one of the three best examples of this dish I have ever had. It is deftly seasoned, perfectly cooked and so reasonable in price ($19.95 for an enormous ‘regular’ cut, $17.95 for petite) that it is astounding. Also note that not just the prime rib, but every one of the dozen-plus entrees comes with soup or salad, fresh vegetables and a starch. The soups are all house-made, and the salad is a classic mix of crisp greens, sweet baby corn ears, onions (including pickled onions), a slice or two of farm-fresh beets and made-at-home dressings.
    The vegetable sides are also first-rate. Served al dente with a small serving of sauce providing a nice counterpoint, they are every bit the equal to the entrees. High praise considering the quality of the main courses that come out of the busy kitchen. Starters include pot stickers, chicken strips and sautéed mushrooms (each $6.95) plus chicken wings ($7.95) that the group at the next table were polishing off at an alarming rate. If you are undecided, the sampler platter is $12.95.
    But back to the entrees. While I would be hard-pressed to pass up the prime rib, I have ordered the St. Louis-style pork back ribs ($17.95) and been well-rewarded. It is an entire side, stacked high on the platter. I love ribs but I barely made a dent. They have just the right amount of rub and sauce and the meat comes easily—but not too easily—off the bone. If this was a rib joint, people would flock to the door.
    Carnivores would also be happy with either version (charbroiled or Cajun) of the 14-ounce ribeye steaks topped with onion rings ($18.95) or with the pan-seared skillet lamb loin chops ($18.95). You can ask for grilled onions, garlic, mushrooms and tomatoes on top of the tender chops or on the side. Special requests are always accommodated.
    Other dishes with a strong following are the shrimp and sausage sauté ($17.95) which pairs jumbo prawns with spicy sausage and fresh vegetables, served over cheese-filled rigatonis. There is also a traditional scampi preparation atop angel hair pasta ($16.95), a fillet of sole stuffed with jack cheese and crab, topped with bay shrimp in a Champagne sauce ($16.95) and a pan-sautéed chicken Marsala ($15.95). The lone sandwich available for dinner is a marinated steak sandwich topped with onions and garlic mayonnaise on toasted sourdough ($14.95). Unless you are in an uncontrolled sandwich mode I would opt for a steak sans roll instead. The sandwich is certainly very, very good, but the steaks served solo are even better.
    The dessert menu is brief (five items, all $3.95-5.95) but worth considering. When is the last time you had a classic chocolate mousse or a Killer Brownie? Or homemade cheesecake made with three pounds of cream cheese?
    Tomat’s has a full bar. There is also a small but serviceable wine list with a number of local choices, such as the wines of Rominger West down the road. House wine is available by the glass, half carafe or carafe. If you bring your own, corkage is $9.
    Sunday brunch at Tomat’s could become a tradition. Again, the menu stretches to two pages, and entrees include a complimentary glass of sparkling wine. In addition to the traditional fare, there is also a bay shrimp and smoked salmon topped eggs Benedict ($7.95), a country pork chop and eggs with homemade country gravy ($9.95), burgers ($6.95), a BLT ($7.95) and, well, the list goes on. And the home fries! I cannot describe the flavor, the lightness, the entire experience adequately. Suffice it to say that if they sold them out the back door during the week, I would be first in line. In fact with food this good and this well served, a visit once a week wouldn’t be a bad idea for any reason. ­

Tomat’s, 1123 W. Grant Ave., Winters (530) 795-3404. Reservations suggested Friday, Saturday and for large groups for Sunday brunch. Open for dinner 5-9 p.m. every day except Monday and Tuesday; 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday for brunch.

Do you like what you read? Subscribe to Solano Magazine »