Days of beer and cheese

A historic pairing made simple

Wine and cheese pairing is a concept far from foreign to the Napa Valley, or the nation as a whole. We’ve all been there, out wine tasting or at a friend’s house or at the grocery store, thinking: Which wine goes best with what cheese? How does the Cowgirl Creamery Triple Cream affect the acid in the chardonnay? Now think about replacing the wine in that scenario with a glass of beer.
    The combination of beer and cheese is nothing new to brewers, but the concept has recently been grabbing the attention of consumers as well. “I’ve seen a growing interest among my customers,” says Gordon Edgar, a cheese monger at the Rainbow Grocery Coop in San Francisco. “The combination of beer and cheese has been neglected and underrated for years.”
    Both products originate on the farm and are staples in pubs across Europe, where beer is served with a variety of cheeses, instead of the American standard of nuts and pretzels. “Many cheese varieties were introduced by monks in Europe,” Edgar explains, “and since many orders made both beer and cheese, they grew up together and are a natural match.”
    In the brewing community, some will argue that wine is not really even meant to go with cheese, believing wine is too acidic to complement cheese and washes the cheese coating off of the palate, while beer actually nurtures the flavors.
    Michael Poley, senior resident brewmaster at Anheuser-Busch in Fairfield, agrees but he also brings up the palate-cleansing qualities of beer. “The carbon dioxide in beer can refresh your taste buds after the protein in the cheese.” Nick Campbell, brewmaster at Blue Frog Grog & Grill in Fairfield, points out, “The beer selected should also be satisfying and substantial without being overpowering, just like what you would look for when choosing a wine.”
    Not to worry, wine lovers, the brew community is not looking to replace wine in our hearts, simply to add beer to our glasses. “Beer seems to be more friendly than wine when it’s paired with cheese,” says Nick Landis, owner of Blue Frog. “Wine pairing can take a long time for the amateur. Beer is easier to pair with cheese and goes with a broader range of flavors.”
    So how do you pair beer and cheese? Edgar recommends strong cheese with strong beer and to match quality with quality. One of his favorite pairings is blue cheese or an aged cheddar like Fiscalini with a good stout or ale, for example, a Lagunitas Brewing Co. Faison, which is a Belgium-style brew.
    Landis and Campbell both suggest looking not only for complementary flavors but also for contrasting tastes to keep the heart of the beer and cheese flavors coming through. They also say that creamier cheeses tend to go well with beers higher in alcohol, and high-acid cheeses pair well with lighter, fruitier beers. Among their favorites were Cabot Vintage Choice Cheddar with Blue Frog’s Foggy Bottom Pilsner, and La Tur, a triple cream from Italy, with their 5th Anniversary Ale.
     Poley says beer and cheese pairing is really pretty simple: “Big beer, big cheese; light beer, light cheese.” When first trying Humboldt Fog cheese with Michelob Amber Rock, Poley admits he was pleasantly surprised. “I typically like lighter cheeses, but this pairing is one of my favorites.”
    While keeping in mind some of the suggestions from the experts, the key is still to have fun and don’t overly complicate matters. Edgar, Landis, Campbell and Poley all agree that you shouldn’t be afraid to experiment. Campbell says, “Go buy some quality cheeses and beers; you’ll be surprised at what you find.” Edgar mentions how many people learn they like blue cheese when paired with beer because the beer mellows the pungent aspects of the cheese and brings out its sweet undertones.
    Poley says that beer pairing is similar to pairing wine. “It comes down to this: Drink what you like, and if you think a combination tastes good, go with it.”

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