Portugal

Lisbon, Sintra and Cascais: History, beauty and fun

Many years ago, the ancient Carthaginians, Greeks and specifically the Romans (who called the land Lusitania) had military and trading outposts in the far western Mediterranean. Of mild climate, rugged soil and military importance, Portugal, as the country is known today, has been a fascinating place to visit for thousands of years. Part of the original European Union and a staunch NATO defender, Portugal is all about its history, great explorations, sunshine, the sea, modernity, port, cork and wine.

History is alive in Portugal, which revels in its Golden Age of Explorations (the 15th and 16th centuries), when the country’s ships ruled the world. Many brave and ambitious Portuguese sea captains were among the first westerners to explore unknown lands and trade routes, seeking the riches of India, Africa and beyond. Portuguese explorers “discovered” Brazil (Pedro Álvares Cabral, 1467-1520); charted a successful round-trip trade route to India (Vasco da Gama,1460-1524); became the first Europeans to sail around Africa’s Cape of Good Hope (Bartolomeu Dias, 1457-1500); and circumnavigated the globe (Ferdinand Magellan, 1480-1521). (Although Magellan was a Portuguese explorer, he had had a falling-out with the Portuguese king and was sailing for Spain at the time.)

Lisbon

Portugal’s wealth vastly increased as a result of these voyages, with massive amounts of gold, silver, spices and slaves plundered or traded with natives. Visitors to Lisbon can see evidence of the capital’s pride in its history in the many museums and monuments dedicated to the great explorers, such as the beautiful Vasco da Gama Bridge spanning the Tagus, and the huge Monument to the Discoveries featuring statues of Prince Henry (Henrique) the Navigator (1394-1460), a wealthy patron of early voyages.

The beautiful old Belem district, site of debarkation for most of those famous sea journeys, includes a number of worthy sights. The Museu de Marinha honors the country’s tremendous seafaring past, with many exhibits, re-creations and actual boats. This is a must-see, as is the exciting old Monastery of Jeronimos, complete with orderly gardens, altars and Gothic, Renaissance and Manuline architecture. The monastery was built to thank the explorers, and Vasco da Gama is buried inside. The austere Torre de Belem, once a sentry tower on the river that protected the harbor for years, today lies across from the Museu de Marinha on the water’s edge.

Don’t miss the Pateis de Belem nearby. This bakery, the most famous in all Portugal, was established in 1837, and serves up thousand of small, delicious custard-like pastries to eager locals and visitors alike. This delectable site should be on everyone’s list of things to do in Lisbon.

Declared the capital of the country by King Alphonso II in 1255, Lisbon’s long history is fraught with the wars, kings, explorations, wealth, religious persecutions and political overthrows common to many European countries.

Museums, galleries, churches, easy-walking neighborhoods and a warm-to-hot climate make the capital a fascinating place to explore. Visitors will enjoy the ornate boulevards, grand squares and little districts all crowded together. Although certainly a vibrant, Latin-styled country, there is a strong sense of order in Lisbon, in the most part due to two related factors. A massive earthquake destroyed huge portions of the thriving port city in November, 1755, and strong aftershocks and a huge tidal wave made matters worse. An estimated 60,000 people died as a result of the quake’s carnage and destruction. One man was instrumental and visionary in the aftermath. As first minister, Marques de Pombal decreed all new streets in the rebuilding process should have orderly lines and wide sidewalks, and be simple and symmetrical. Pombal created a functioning grid system for many of the city’s streets and avenues, most visible in the Baixa district. This helped the city’s commercial sector prosper by making transport much easier. Many statues have been erected in Pombal’s honor.

There are plenty of sites to enjoy throughout the cities, including the Praca de Comercio, a huge public square rimmed with neo-classical shops and offices and dominated by a regal statue of Jose I, the king at the time of the earthquake. The Gulbenkian Museum, a large, rambling yet comprehensive space, is the largest art museum in Portugal. This Catholic country boasts many churches, and the main Se Cathedral is one of the most impressive. Dating back to 1150, the cathedral has survived earthquakes, sieges and wars and remains a towering fortress of a holy place.

The city of Lisbon really gets going after dark. Be prepared, because you’ll be eating late here. Dinners usually begin between 8 and 10 p.m. “This is fish country,” explained Carlos, a knowledgeable waiter at Café IT, a fine waterfront restaurant. Diners will experience incredible fresh sea bass, prawns, huge snappers and mammoth octopi.  Black pig (pork) and potatoes is another tasty Portuguese specialty served throughout the country.

Nightclubs don’t really attract much of a crowd before 1 a.m., and often continue until 7 or 8 in the morning. The Bairro Alto neighborhood traditionally was filled with bars and clubs, but now partiers can find good spots all over town. The waterfront also has many new, fun and lively areas to dance the night away.

For a different but important kind of Portuguese experience, sample the Solar Do Vinho Do Porto, offering over 300 ports by the glass, including great LBVs (Late Bottled Vintage) and tawnies. This experience, inside a lovely historic townhouse, is something all port lovers should try at least once.

After exploring Lisbon, try getting out of town and enjoying the nearby countryside. A fabulous one-two punch visit combines checking out the historic town of Sintra, and then relaxing in Cascais.

Sintra
Sintra was famous as the summer resort for Portuguese kings. Though a bit heavy on the tourist side, its National Palace (the summer home of the king), ancient Castelo dos Mouros up the hill and the amazing, quirky Pena Palace at the very top of the nearby hill are worthwhile stops. Portugal’s German-born Prince Ferdinand had a crazy, Dali-esque fantasy castle built which includes every style of architecture imaginable. Sintra has plenty of small pensions, restaurants, bars and wine shops worth sampling.

Cascais

When your sightseeing duties are over, head back down to the “Portuguese Riviera” to savor the small, well-appointed and enervating town of Cascais (pronounced Cash-kais). Only 40 minutes west of Lisbon by train, (or 25 by car), Cascais is like the south of France without the attitude or the ridiculous prices. Extremely colorful, it’s the place to chill out after big-city Lisbon. Working fishing boats still ply these waters at the head of the Tagus, but occasional mega-yachts and sailboats do stop for a visit. Many ornate, restored villas have been turned into guest houses and inns. In fact, the Albatroz Palace and Villa Albatroz guest house make you feel like an honored guest in the home of an 18th-century nobleman.

Beaches in Cascais are clean, warm and generally populated by local families. Visitors will easily find an assortment of charming local restaurants, outdoor cafes and bars. The food, particularly seafood, is consistently fresh and relatively inexpensive. For fine dining Cascais style, in yet another converted villa, try the 100 Maneiras restaurant.

Portugal has many other sights, towns, and areas to discover such as Oporto and the stunning Douro Valley (a UNESCO World Heritage site) in the north, the hot, swanky Algarve beaches of the south and the ancient towns and serene cork forests of the interior.

Next time I’m there, I’m going to catch a bullfight, maybe see a soccer game, and work on trying those other 290 ports.

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