Food & Spirits

Artisanal Distillers Brighten the Holidays

Paul Franson

A nice beverage is always a welcome gift, but it doesn't have to be a rare bottle of California wine. The state's artisanal spirits companies make a lot of delectable products, too. These distillers of fruit and grain have moved beyond tiny niches into the mainstream of the adult beverage business, and it's a rare upscale bar that doesn't proudly feature local vodkas, gins, whiskeys, brandies, eaux-de-vie and liqueurs.

They follow in a long tradition. Before Prohibition, many wineries had stills to make brandy to fortify local sherries and ports, though few do today. Instead, small specialists produce these spirits, with a few edging into the big time.

One of the pioneers in handcrafting spirits is ST. GEORGE SPIRITS, which is now housed in an abandoned hangar at the former Alameda Air Station on an island in San Francisco Bay. There, Jorg Rupf ferments pure fruit, then distills it in small pot stills to extract the essence of the flavors plus the alcohol. The spirits are intense and enchanting, a far cry from the sweetened fruit-flavored "brandies" most of us have used in drinks or desserts.

Rupf was a young man from a long line of distillers from Germany's Black Forest when he came to the United States to apply his craft. He started St. George more than 20 years ago, first producing exquisite eaux-de-vie (clear fruit brandy that's not aged in wood) from pears, cherries, raspberries and even zinfandel grapes (grappa). He also produces liqueurs from raspberries and pears. All are wonderful chilled or over ice.

Since founding St. George, Rupf and partner Lance Winters, a former nuclear engineer, have branched out into whiskey. The company has also made cognac-like brandies in partnership with wineries.

The most recent, and by far biggest, venture for St. George was with Ansley Coale of another artisanal spirits producer, GERMAIN-ROBIN. It's Hangar One Vodka, named after its home. The company makes only 41,000 cases, a tiny fraction of big producers like Smirnoff or even Ketel One. The line includes straight vodka as well as those flavored with Viognier wine, Buddha's Hand citron, Fraser River (Washington) raspberry, Kaffir lime and mandarin orange.

You can visit-and taste-the beverages at the distillery. Call (510) 769-1601 or visit stgeorgespirits.com for details. The vodkas, and some spirits, are also available at Beverages & More and other liquor stores.

Another artisanal spirits producer is the aforementioned Germain-Robin, which was started by Hubert Germain-Robin, who comes from a family of distillers in Cognac, and Ansley Coale. Germain-Robin, in southern Mendocino County, makes brandy in an old Alambic copper pot still. Considered by many to be better than cognac, it has none of the harshness of many cognacs and slides down perhaps too easily. The popular $35 Fine Alambic Brandy has overtones of California fruit, appealing floral aromas and a sensuous mouth-feel.

In addition, the company produces the $350 pinot noir-based Anno Domini and single-barrel and other special bottlings. It also makes merlot and zinfandel grappas. You can find the Alambic brandy at many liquor stores and even supermarkets. The website is germain-robin.com and phone number is (800) 782-8145.

Jepson Winery south of Ukiah may be the only winery in America that makes still wine, sparkling wine and brandy. Though its brandy is not quite as sophisticated as Germain-Robin's, it is also excellent.

Another distiller is the Karakasevic family's DOMAINE CHARBAY in St. Helena, which boasts 13 generations of distillers. Of late, Charbay has hit it big with its plain and flavored vodkas, which incorporate fruit including Meyer lemon, blood orange, ruby red grapefruit, key lime, green leaf tea vodka, red raspberry and the newest, pomegranate vodka. The flavored vodkas are often mixed into cocktails, but are also intriguing chilled or over ice cubes.

One of the state's newest handcrafted spirits is Apple-ation apple brandy from 100-year-old organic apple trees growing on the DUT-TON RANCH in the Russian River Valley. Aged in French oak casks, the fermentation is of whole apples, not just the juice, and the whole mix of apple wine and apple mash is also fermented for additional complexity. It is available for $35 at the DAVIS FAMILY WINERY tasting room in Healdsburg or davisfamilyvineyards.com.

Leslie Rudd's delicate Distillery 209 Gin has attracted many fans, including those who don't like a strong juniper flavor. He makes it in San Francisco, where Old Potrero Rye and Potrero Gin are also produced at the Anchor Steam Distillery.

Other craft distillers include Essential Spirits of Mountain View, Osocalis Distillery of Soquel, Sarticious Spirits in Santa Cruz, Solomon Tournour Co. of Calpella and Sweetwater Distilling in Petaluma.

California's craft distillers produce intriguing spirits. They're great gifts-and libations to offer your own guests at holiday parties as well.