Tomato terroir

Blessed with tomato-growing weather, tomato-loving soil and tomato-friendly geography—wine and coffee growers call it terroir—our region possesses all the characteristics that have made Solano County the biggest tomato producer in California. This month Fairfield celebrates this terroir with one of the country’s biggest heirloom tomato festivals.
    The United States is a country of tomato eaters. In the past decade, the heirloom tomato has burst onto the gourmet American food scene. In Solano County, you’ll find them in farmers markets, on restaurant menus and even in your local grocery store. But you’ll never find as many heirloom tomatoes in one place as you will in Tomato Alley at the Fairfield Tomato Festival, Saturday August 18 from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on West Texas Street in downtown Fairfield.
    Heirloom tomatoes are the best-loved varieties of the hottest fruit in American gardens. These luscious, fat, juicy, vine-ripened, sun-warmed heirlooms carry names as unusual as their looks: Aunt Ruby’s German Green, Abe Lincoln, Cosmonaut Volkov, Mortgage Lifter, Purple Perfect, Indian Moon, White Beauty, Green Velvet and Kellogg’s Breakfast.

Linda and Steve Tenbrink

    Linda Tenbrink and her husband Steve grow almost a ton of heirloom tomatoes for sale and sampling in Tomato Alley. Tenbrink says, “Steve planted 10 to 20 each of over 100 varieties of heirloom tomatoes in early spring. Every variety of heirloom tomato not only looks different, they taste different. Even their texture is different. Heirlooms are sensitive to the growing season, but this year we just might achieve our goal of bringing 100 varieties to Tomato Alley.”
    A self-described tomato-lover, Tenbrink believes in tomato terroir. “The same principles apply to growing anything, whether it’s tomatoes, grapes, apples or cherries. It’s not just a grape thing. We have a good climate and good soil for tomatoes. Fruits and veggies grown in Suisun Valley have always been, flavor-wise, a step above what’s grown in the San Joaquin Valley. Geography is an integral part of growing tomatoes. It’s a combination of soil, climate and daily temperature changes.”
    Sean Quinn, Fairfield’s community development director, coordinated Tomato Alley last year. “We handle the setup, direct volunteers on safety and prep and sample and sell tomatoes. Last year we had over 1,800 pounds and 60 different types of heirlooms. I never knew there were so many tomatoes.” These old-time tomatoes have a wide range of flavors, from mild, fruity and sweet, to rich and meaty, to a complex mix of tangy and sweet with lots of depth. “Tomato tasting is a cool experience. People are mesmerized by all the colors and shapes and when they see all the varieties we have, they’re flabbergasted. And by the end of the day, we’re completely sold out.”
    As for tomato terroir? “From what I’ve heard, the deep soil, warm days and cool evenings give us great conditions for growing tomatoes,” Quinn says. “When we started the festival, Solano County grew more tomatoes than any other county in the state. If the tomatoes in my garden are any indication, we’re going to have a great crop for tasting this year.”
    The Fairfield Downtown Association sponsors the festival, now in its 16th year. Events coordinator Lynn Chambers says she loves heirloom tomatoes. “You can’t grow decent artichokes in Suisun Valley and you can’t grow decent tomatoes in Watsonville. Those truckloads of tomatoes you see on the interstates are great for stewed tomatoes, salsa and soup. But those aren’t our tomatoes. There’s a big difference.”
    The Tomato Festival draws over 45,000 people of all ages. The 2007 festival will feature live music on
two stages, about 200 vendors, a tomato-eating contest with cash prizes, the Tomato Alley market and lots of free activities for kids. And, of course, Attack of the Killer Tomatoes will be shown for free throughout the day at Pepperbelly’s Comedy and Variety Theater.
    The West Coast Barbecue Championship also returns for the fourth year. Ben Lobenstein, vice-president of California Barbecue Association and contest organizer, says dozens of teams are set to compete. “The Barbecue Championship is a fairly good fit with the Tomato Festival. This year we’re expanding the contestant pool with a second category. In addition to the Championship series, we’ll have a Competitor series—a sort of backyard division—for people who aren’t pros. They’ll have different rules and easier categories for judging. We’ll also have a sampling booth so people can taste the contestants’ barbecue. Tasting is going to be huge.”
    Michael Chiarello, celebrated television personality, cookbook author and restaurant chef, whose books are packed with recipes for tomato dishes and drinks, is a big fan of heirlooms. “Heirloom tomatoes are the original flavor of a tomato. My favorites are the Black Russian and a southern Italian large cluster tomato called Grapoli.” He, too, believes in tomato terroir. “What makes our region great for grapes—warm afternoons and cool evenings—also make it perfect for tomatoes. As with the grape, cool evenings preserve the acid in the tomatoes. And everything you grow takes on the character of the soil you grow it in. Tracking products to their original flavor is something I’ve tried to do my entire cooking life. Tomatoes are a big part of my summer.”

Tomato- and barbecue-lovers will find much to celebrate at the 16th Annual Fairfield Tomato Festival and West Coast Barbecue Championship. For more information, call (707) 422-0103 or check out fairfielddowntown.com.

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